Is the Basque Country worth a culinary journey?

What an experience, my first visit to the Frères Ibarboure in Bidart, south of Biarritz, in the 1990s. A culinary world opened up to me like I had never tasted before. Amazing combinations of flavours and textures, creative presentation, a beautiful and pleasant location, attentive and personal service. And after all these years, every visit to this extraordinary gastronomic temple is still a wonderful culinary journey.

Just like when I first tasted the paprika powder Piment d'Espelette. A revelation. Coming from Germany, I had never heard of it before. I like its complex flavour, pleasantly hot, and I quickly banned pepper from my kitchen. Piment d'Espelette has become my favourite spice that I use every day. I particularly appreciate the powder from the producer Ferme Agerria in Itxassou, which I offer for sale to our holiday guests.

The cuisine of the Basque Country convinces with its quality and refinement. With its traditional smallholder agriculture, its exceptional climate and particular geography, the Basque Country has a wide range of local products that our restaurateurs know how to show off.

As you will have understood, Frères Ibarboure is my favourite restaurant in the French Basque Country and also one of the very few that offers its guests Piment d'Espelette on the table. I have also tried other star restaurants and have always come to the conclusion that no other address makes me as happy from a culinary point of view. Of course, star food has its price. And that's why I've started looking for cheaper good addresses from which I would like to present my favourites to you.

I will take you to Espelette, the capital of the popular chilli pepper. Espelette is a victim of its success, especially in the summer and during the Chili Festival, and is overrun for my taste. But outside the high season and its annual festival, it is a charming village. Here you will find the choko ona, a modern restaurant with beautiful materials, run by a young couple. At the beginning of 2020 it was awarded a Michelin star. The cuisine is surprising, a feast for the eyes and very tasty. You will be delighted by the many loving details.

Irissarry is a small village in the heart of the French Basque Country, 45 minutes from the Basque coast, where there is an exceptional building, the Commanderie Ospitalea, which in itself is worth a visit. Right next door is a remarkable culinary address, the ART'ZAIN restaurant. The architecture of the restaurant, with its old stone walls and massive beams, lovingly restored, and the contemporary Basque ALKI furniture from Itxassou, make it a true place of well-being. The kitchen is imaginative and beautifully arranged, presented in handmade tableware. The service is very cordial. Every visit is a moment of guaranteed pleasure.

Also inland, in Briscous, the Maison Joanto restaurant is an address that deliberately uses local products. The interior of the Maison Joanto is modern and the spacious terrace is very pleasant. You can look forward to authentic Basque cuisine of high quality.

Follow me to the Atlantic coast to the beach of Ilbarritz (Bidart), overlooked by Villa Ilbarritz, a mansion built by the Baron de l'Espée, an eccentric organ lover. There you will find La Plancha. I love this restaurant in good weather with ideally little wind for two reasons:
1) La Plancha with its beautiful terrace borders directly on the romantic beach Plage d'Ilbarritz and you can enjoy a beautiful sunset.
2) I have never and nowhere else eaten a Dorade à la Plancha as tasty as in there.
And the homemade desserts are just as delicious.

We stay on the coast and continue south to Urrugne, where the Ferme Lizarraga welcomes us with a delicious gourmet cuisine based on regional products. In this 17th century house with a terrace facing the modern age, you will spend an excellent culinary moment. And in good weather, you will enjoy the beautiful terrace with a breathtaking panoramic view of the Pyrenees.

On the Spanish side (South Basque Country) you have also hit the jackpot in culinary terms. Indeed, we can boast the highest concentration of star restaurants per inhabitant in the Basque Country.

With almost 40 star restaurants, the Basque Country is one of the best culinary destinations in the world.